Direct Acids

Exfoliating acids are chemical ingredients that help to remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. They work by loosening the bonds between cells, revealing fresher, smoother skin underneath. Common types include AHAs, BHAs and PHAs, which each target different layers of the skin to improve texture, tone and clarity.

Acid-based exfoliators target your skin at various levels to treat your skin concerns, including pigmentation, blemish-prone skin, skin texture, evening out skin tone and skin brightening.

Acids can be used at different stages of your skincare routine depending on the format. Acid-based cleansers, such as those with glycolic or salicylic acid, are a great way to gently exfoliate during the first step of your routine. 

After cleansing, exfoliating acids and toners can be applied to further sweep away dead skin cells and prepare the skin for better absorption of the products that follow. These are best used in the evening, when the skin naturally begins its repair process and is not exposed to UV stress.

Acid-based exfoliators are exceptional solutions for managing your skin concerns but can be too intense if your skin is especially sensitive. To help your skin adjust to its potent ingredients, we suggest limiting your exfoliation step to once a week, layering hydrating and skin repair products to buffer the active ingredients. Or, consider our Press and Glow Daily Exfoliating PHA Tonic that utilises polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that works on the outermost layer of skin and offers a milder clarifying action than traditional AHA.

AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are water-soluble acids that exfoliate the skin’s surface. 

BHAs (beta hydroxy acids) are oil-soluble and work deeper within the pores, making them ideal for blemish-prone skin. 

PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are larger molecules that offer gentle exfoliation while also drawing in moisture, making them a great choice for sensitive or dry skin. 

AHAs and BHAs can work well together, but combining them requires care. The safest approach is to use a single, balanced formula containing both acids, like Surface Radiance Cleanse, to exfoliate effectively without causing irritation.

You can also alternate their use: try AHAs in the evening and BHAs in the morning, or use them on different days. Another method is to apply them to specific areas based on skin type, such as BHAs on oilier zones and AHAs where skin feels dull or dry.

Avoid layering separate AHA and BHA products in the same routine unless the formulas are specifically designed to work together. Always follow with moisturiser and SPF to keep the skin protected and balanced.

Explore our guide to learn more about skincare acids and how to use them effectively.

Yes, AHAs, BHAs and PHAs can be used together, but it’s important to apply them in a way that minimises the risk of irritation. A gentle approach is to use AHAs and BHAs in a cleanser, such as Surface Radiance Cleanse, to exfoliate during cleansing, followed by a PHA-based toner like Press & Glow to hydrate and refine without overloading the skin.

Alternatively, you can alternate between them on different days to build tolerance. Always follow with moisturiser and wear sunscreen during the day to protect freshly exfoliated skin.

At Medik8, we advise against layering acids in a single routine. If you use too many exfoliating acids, your skin can become irritated and stripped of its natural moisture and oils. When layering your skincare, start with one exfoliating acid - either daily or every other day, depending on how sensitive your skin is.

Yes, AHA and BHA acid-based exfoliators can potentially dry out your skin and increase photosensitivity, making you more vulnerable to UV damage. However, these are easily addressed with broad-spectrum sunscreen and formulations fortified with hydrating ingredients.